Saturday, August 9, 2014

Day 121-127

7/29: Day 121
Comfort Inn-Galehead Hut
Total miles:13

Around 5:45 my alarm went off. One of the problems with staying at a hotel, especially one with breakfast, is getting back to the trail in a timely manner. We decided to make a concerted effort to break that cycle. It was awesome being the first one down to the food. Normally hotel continental breakfast are the morning equivalent to the Kentucky Derby as people jostle for position in line. By 9:00am we were walking the road to a good spot for a hitch. Little did we know we were going to run into our long time friends The Kallin's. As I started to throw up my thumb I heard a familiar call of my name. It was so awesome to see them. The last time we saw them was before my grandparents picked us up a month ago. They offered to give us a ride up to the trail, which was super convenient. 

The portion of trail today is one of the most anticipated by any thru-hiker. Franconia ridge, as it's called, was our first alpine ridge line of the whole trail. It truly lived up to its hype. During our time in PA and those other middle states we often had to do a lot of work climbing hills and would get no view. This climb was total different. After the 3000ft ascent all the burn of our efforts were forgotten and replaced with the majesty of the view we had. 

After lunch we only had 6-miles to go, but it took us nearly 6 hours to accomplish. When we arrived at the hut Dawn talked with the staff about getting a work for stay. This is where you do a little work for se food and a spot on the floor. Initially they declined but Dawn persisted and with the agreement that they didn't have to feed us, they let us stay. I've never been so thankful for a spot on the floor in my life. It's supposed to cool down to the 30's with gusting winds, and since I only have a 45f sleeping bag, I would have frozen outside all night. Life goes easy. 

7/30: Day 122
Galehead Hut-Lucky B's Dad's house
Total miles:15

We woke this morning having gotten a great nights sleep. Last night it dipped down pretty cold, but the hut was nice and warm. During breakfast Lucky B offered us a bed at his dad's place. He also said there would be steaks for dinner and bacon for breakfast. How could anyone turn that down?! 

We set off at a good pace. Getting to the Zealand Hut at 11:30am, which was 7 or so miles away. At that hut we caught up with some friends that have been ahead since our week off at the end of June. The huts will give hikers extra food if they have any. This hut had a tray full of little pancakes when we arrived and a couple other odds and ends left over from breakfast. When we left, they had no more extra food. The last miles after lunch was a breeze. The trail followed what we think to be an old rail road path. At 3:30pm we got to the road to be picked up and not 5 mins later here came Lucky B's dad. From the beginning he was extremely nice, he even put up with our noxious odor on the way to his house without complaint. The rest of the evening is a blur. We showered, watched tv, did laundry, ate the promised steaks, and as soon as my head hit the pillow I was out cold. It was one of the better days of hiking in recent memory. 

7/31: Day 123
Lucky B's Dads house-Lake of the Clouds Hut
Total miles:14

I woke this morning having slept so comfortably my body felt legitimately rested. My walk downstairs resemble a 90's foldgers commercial. As I walked down each step the smell of coffee was in the air, and when I reached the source I was greeted by Lucky B's Dad extending a freshly poured cup. We both sat down and watched some news. Only reminding me how much I don't care for it. None the less, it was a smooth easy going time. We all gathered around the table around 6:30am to eat our bacon and toast. 

Today was yet another pristine day in the whites. The climb up was long, taking nearly 3-hours. When I say climb I really mean that we climbed at times. Most of it was steep walking, but the AT has a dark side that tends to route us up the steepest possible ascent, demanding we climb hand over foot. Each view, and we had many, during our ascent was reward enough. Around 12:00 we reached a hut conveniently placed for us to have lunch. We hung out for a while and talked with day hikers who seemed to have a never ending amount of questions about our quest. Hopefully with all the information we shared they too will embark on a thru-hike. 

On our way up to our final hut of the day it got really cold and super windy. Just as thunder started to crack in the distance we reached the safety of the hut and we avoided hiking in a thunder storm above tree line. Our friends Acorn and Lucky B were not so fortunate. We later learned two other hikers a couple miles ahead going to a further hut would face a battle with hypothermia before they made it to safety. Thankfully they are strong guys, a lesser pair of hikers could have been in serious trouble. 

These huts are run by the Appalachian Mountain Club. Members of the club come up here to enjoy there many amenities at extremely high cost. For about $120 a night you get one bunk, dinner, and breakfast. That is per person, not per family. The reason for the expense is due to the logistical nightmare the club faces to provide these services. All food and waste must be carried in and out, and the huts have no electrical lines. They support themselves on a mix of solar, wind, and a small propane generator. The fact that these huts even exist and are profitable is amazing to me. That leads me into how we fit into the picture. At night they turn the lights out at 9:30pm to conserve power. Some of the hut goers then get head lamps and continue to play card games in the main lobby area. We are faced with the challenge of waiting for an open floor spot to claim as our bed for the night. They pay $120 for all their benefits, we hiked 1800-miles and thankfully the AMC sees that as work enough to give us a place to sleep. Right now as I lay on this hut floor, I'm so thankful I have a warm dry place to sleep. 

8/1: Day 124
Lake of the clouds hut-Pinkem Notch
Total miles: 13.5

Today we summited Mount Washington. It's a huge feeling of accomplishment to check off that mile stone from our list. The feeling as we walked down the top was euphoric, we had a clear day and some of the best scenery I've seen since we started. The white mountains are a huge draw for many hikers, thus the area is inebriated with hiking trails. I'm sad to say, for the first time all trip, we took a wrong turn. It was my fault and was a terrible trail to get lost on. The trail was full of boulders and super steep and slippery rocks. About a half mile down the trail Dawn pointed out we were starting to drastically go the wrong direction. Neither one of us handled it well as we faced the reality that we were about to hike back up what we had just descended. We did eventually make it back onto our trail, and to the hut for lunch. Albeit a very late lunch. Our fellow hikers new it had taken us too long as asked if we were ok. In their attempts to subdue our down trodden countenance we found out how good of friends we have made on this trip. 

After lunch we went up our last mountain of the day, Mt Madison. The descent was anything but easy. Upon finally making it to Pinkem notch we were glad to find some picnic tables to cook dinner on. A day hiker gave us bananas and almonds to snack on. A welcomed treat to break the monotony of our regular snacks. After dinner we hiked a ways from the road and setup our tent. It's been a highly demanding day. We're both ready for a solid nights sleep. Life goes easy. 

8/2: Day 125
Pinkem Notch-Gorham NH

We woke this morning to a tragedy. Last night either a mouse or chipmunk chewed a hole into our tent. It was particularly disheartening since this tent is very new, and our favorite piece of gear. I suppose it's not so much the hole that upset us as much as the violation of our private space. We started to hike up but the hole, a lingering threat of rain, and our not so excited demeanor lead us to turn around and go to town. It was the right decision. The past few days have been beautiful but very demanding and since there is a walmart in Gorham we couldn't resist. It took a while to get a ride, but eventually two guys in a Honda crv pulled over. They took us all the way to walmart. After some time in the store front Dunkin' Donut restaurant we completed our resupply. I also found some Gorilla tape specifically made to repair punctured items, our tent should be a good application for their product. We then called a hostel named "The Barn" for lodging. After all it's been a couple days since we last showered. He suggested taking the city bus to his place, but when it never showed up he reluctantly decided to come get us. The owners name was Doc and he was the archetype of an upset person. He told us of his many visit to city hall to complain about mostly frivolous things. His largest grievance pertained to the city ordinance allowing people to ride ATV's one paved roads. I won't go into the details. By this time it was 3:00pm. We hung out for a while in the common area and to walk down to Pizza Hut. Pizza has been one of the very few foods I haven't grown tired of on this trip. Hopefully I never do. The walk back was pleasant. Dawn and I strolled down the sidewalk holding hands as the birds chirped. Now it's time to settle in for a descent nights sleep. Life goes easy. 

8/3: Day 126
The Barn Hostel-Carlo Shelter
Total miles: 17

I wrote yesterday of the hostel owners angry disposition. Today he was consistent with our first impression. After Dawn and I had ate breakfast and packed our bags we waited for him in the drive way at 8:00am for our agreed upon ride to the trail head, which was 3.8 miles away. Doc was a no show. I called his cell and got a voicemail. A few minutes later he called back and said because of the price of gas he could not give us a ride. I suppose today his anger was pointed towards the price of gas, but it quickly affected us in a big way. I pointed out his breach or contract that we had mutually agreed upon before having paid for his services. He was not persuaded and told us to arrange our own transportation back to the trail. At this point he had my money and he knew it. I thought about calling my bank to put a stop payment on the debit card charge, but that seemed messy. Ironically another hostel shuttle van picked us up, at no charge, and took us back to the trail. 

After mentally moving past this mornings debacle, today was a monumental day. We reached Maine!!! Or last state! The trail was packed with many labor intensive climbs and descents but we were so happy to be in Maine. It's almost surreal being here. For most of the trip Maine has seemed like a fictitious place I would never reach. Now the end is quickly coming upon us. We're very ready to be home, but not before we hike this beautiful state. Life goes easy. 

8/4: Day 127
Carlo Shelter-Bald Pate Shelter 
Total miles: 16.4

Southern Maine has lived up to its hype. Today we completed both the Mahoossic Notch and Arm. This area is known to be the most difficult or fun part of the trail. The notch is a extremely slender valley between to cliff faces full of boulders that have fallen from above. Thus making it necessary to crawl, climb, and wiggle your way through its 1.1 mile length. The arm is the long climb out of the notch and is equally as strenuous. 

After the notch and the arm, the trail took a drastic turn for the better. On top of Spec Mountian we noticed mains first switch back, not only that but the descent was a well graded one. We literally did that later half of in 2/3's of the time. Our friends Lucky B and Acorn 

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